16 things to do in Willowmore in the Karoo

By Roxanne Reid
Anyone who thinks the Karoo is full of a whole lot of nothing just isn’t paying attention. Same goes for anyone who speeds past Willowmore in the Karoo without stopping to scratch beneath the surface. Here’s my pick of some of the things to do in and around this little dorpie.

You’ll find Willowmore in the Eastern Cape, about 170km north-east of George and 117km south-west of Abderdeen in the Karoo. Although it was first established in 1864 and the district was proclaimed in 1874, its story goes all the way back to 1817, when the first farm was registered. Even today, the main source of income is farming, including angora goats for mohair. (You can see a selection of mohair products to buy at The Cozy Shed on the main road).

Many Gauteng holiday-makers probably only know Willowmore as a signpost on the N9 that they whizz past on their way to Knysna on the Garden Route, but it’s really worth stopping to explore. It also makes a good kick-off point in the west for exploring the Baviaanskloof Wilderness Area with its jagged mountains and rocky cliffs, its lush valleys and lichen-festooned trees.

Willowmore has recently been announced as the Eastern Cape’s ‘Dorp van die Jaar 2023’ (town of the year) by Afrikaans TV programme, Kwela, so I’m not the only one who has fallen under its spell. When you visit, don’t miss Ollie the vintage yellow Anglia welcoming you to town as you approach from Uniondale. It’s an art installation of rusted objects and plants and a cool place for a photo.

Here’s my pick of some of the best things to do in Willowmore.

1. Pop into the tourism office
Start your visit by ducking into the Baviaans Tourism Office in the municipal building on Knysna Street to ask about things to do in the area. They’ll give you a map of the major attractions, including various historical buildings and accommodation options, and tell you about things to do in the area. You can also contact them on tel (049) 807-5709 or https://www.baviaans.co.za. For other useful online info, see Willowmore Tourism’s website, where you can also download street maps of the town and the Baviaanskloof.

2. Admire the old buildings

​Given that its history goes back to the 19th century, it’s no surprise that Willowmore is a delight for those who love the architecture of days gone by. Look out for The Town Hall in Knysna Street. Built around 1896, it’s a symmetrical Victorian building that might look more like a house if it weren’t for the unusual clock tower in the centre.

At numbers 3 and 5 Wehmeyer Street are two lovely old Victorian houses, while at number 70 you’ll find an elegant double-storey Victorian, the first level dating back to 1864 and the top level added in 1897. Once the parsonage of the Dutch Reformed church, and later a girls’ hostel and then a boarding house, it’s now the delightful Willow Historical Guesthouse (see points 14/15).

In Blignaut Street you can find the Old Jail with its plaster quoins at the corners, door and windows. Originally a jail complete with dungeon, it was lovingly converted into a guesthouse and art gallery with gorgeous gardens, but those are now rather forlorn. It’s apparently still used for retreats.

You can see the town’s Jewish history in the (sadly neglected) old synagogue in Victoria Street. Built in 1908, it looks much like any church except for the Hebrew inscription at ground level and what’s left of a broken Star of David at the apex of the facade. This building was already in a state of disrepair when it suffered serious structural damage during the 1969 earthquake. It was deconsecrated in 1979, was used in the past to store old cars and furniture but now stands empty.

The shul has its own ‘ghost’ story from the 1970s when heavy breathing sounds were heard issuing from the building. On investigation, though, it proved to be nothing more ghostly than an owl breeding in the roof.

A building in Knysna Street used to be the rabbi’s house with a line of Stars of David worked into the stoep’s wooden railing. It’s now a funeral business and on our last visit in May 2023, I was horrified to see that the historic railing had been replaced with a galumphing modern one.

There are lots of other gems in the Karoo style with corrugated iron stoep roofs that may be bell-curved or bull-nosed – a great protection against the ruthless Karoo sun. Spend some time wandering the streets to find them. You can drive or walk but best would be to bring your mountain bike and cycle up and down. Many of these lovely old buildings beg to be photographed.

3. Wander around the Willowmore Cemetery 

I may be odd, but I love old graveyards that reek of history and the stories the inscriptions tell. This one has graves dating back to the Spanish Flu of 1918, the Anglo-Boer War of 1899-1902 and beyond. The oldest graves go back to the first half of the 1800s. To the right of the entrance are the graves of some ‘Cape Rebels’ executed by the British for supporting the Boer guerillas during the Anglo-Boer War. From here you can take a short hike to a small powder magazine used during battle to store gunpowder and ammunition, possibly during the Frontier Wars of the 1850s and 1870s.

4. Visit the Jewish Cemetery

Follow the signs from the northern end of the main road, which take you through a fairly neat but poor township. The gates to the Jewish Cemetery are locked but by the time you park someone carrying a key will appear to let you in. Willowmore used to have a thriving Jewish community until about the 1960s, and in this small, very well cared for graveyard you might find names like Feltman, Horowitz, Kaplan and Korelstein.

5. Go hiking
The Pierre Ferreira trail on the outskirts of Willowmore takes you through veld rich in succulents. You’ll pass two old Anglo-Boer War forts that were used to guard the railway line to Willowmore. It’s a 2-3 hour circular trail that gives good views of the village, and is especially pretty in the early morning or late afternoon. In summer when it’s very hot, make sure you wear a hat and sunscreen, and take plenty of water. New signposts need to be erected, but pop in to the tourism office on Knysna Street and they can give you easy directions.

Or go hiking on Aasvoëlberg (vulture mountain) at Finchley Farm 2.5km south-west of Willowmore. It also looks out over the dorp and is one of the few places in the Karoo where coastal fynbos grows. You’ll need to pay a day visitor’s fee.

Many of the accommodation providers in the western section of the Baviaanskloof also offer hiking trails for day visitors (for a fee). Some of those between 40km and 70km from the N9 along the R332 include

• Uitspan Guest Farm (which includes a hike to a cave with Bushman paintings)
• Makkedaat Caves
• Duiwekloof Lodge
• Verlorenrivier Guest Farm (three 5km hikes)
• Bo-Kloof Guest Farm (both hiking and mountain climbing routes)
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6. Walk over the red bridge 

The pedestrian bridge at the southern edge of town was built over the Noodsloot River in 1923 and much used when it was in flood. Back in those days, the road was just a drift. Even as recently as 2010 a flash flood hit Willowmore, turning the river into a torrent that flooded part of the main road. When we last visited in May 2023, it was good to see that this quaint little bridge was getting a bright new coat of red paint. Once the painting was finished, the flower pots would be remounted.

7. Gaze at the stars
The clean, dry Karoo air is perfect for indulging in some star gazing, especially if you stay somewhere away from the town lights – or indeed during hours of loadshedding! Try to move away from buildings so your view isn’t interrupted and you’ll see the planets, stars, Milky Way and other constellations more clearly and brightly than you will in any Big City.

8. Meet your own Karoo Angel

Don’t miss a visit to the Karoo Angels shop next to Absa in Knysna Street. This is an outlet for hand-made angels knitted from thin wire, with feathers, sequins and beads to add individual character. They’re so charming that you’ll want to buy more than one, whether as a Christmas decoration, dream-catcher or perhaps jewellery. They’re produced by crafters in the tiny settlements of Vondeling and Rietbron about 60 or 70km north-west of Willowmore. It all began back in 2006 as a social upliftment project spearheaded by two women from Gqeberha and today it’s still a huge success, with thousands of Karoo angels finding their way to other parts of the world, including Switzerland, France and Norway.

9. Go mountain biking
Bring your mountain bike and take to the gravel roads around Willowmore to feel the wind blow away the Big City cobwebs. Some guest farms in the area also have mountain biking tracks open to day visitors for a small fee. These include:

• Finchley Farm – see website link in point 5
• Baviaans Guest Cottages (about 70km from the N9)
  
  

10. See town by donkey cart 

Look out for the flower-festooned Willow Limo donkey cart that’s usually parked on the main road. Enjoy a leisurely 20-minute ride around the streets of Willowmore while you listen to a local’s take on its story. It’s a wonderful way to slow your pace to Karoo time and will be a hit with your kids. There’s obviously a fee for the ride; think of it as food for the donkeys. If you’re not going on a donkey ride but want a photo of the donkeys and cart, ask first. The driver will want a small fee for a photo.

11. Drive a 4x4 trail
Put your 4x4 through its paces on a 4x4 track and at the same time enjoy the scenery of cliffs and valleys that make the Baviaanskloof area so beautiful. At Finchley Farm 2.5km from Willowmore, you can drive to the top of Aasvoëlberg for sweeping views over the surrounding landscape. The Grade 1-2 track is suitable for 2x4 bakkies with high clearance. See the website link in point 5 for more info.

If you’re a day visitor looking for something more serious to challenge your 4x4 and driving skills, try the Grade 4/5 route at Uitspan Guest Farm 42km from the N9. It should take you 30 minutes or so, depending on how often you stop for photos. There’s also an 8-10km 4x4 route at Makkedaat Caves 47km from the N9, and a 22km 4x4 route at Verlorenrivier Guest Farm 68km from the N9. Day visitors are welcome but need to pay a fee to drive these routes. See website links to these guest farms in point 5 for more info.

12. Visit the old Blackstone Power Station 

If you’re interested in anything to do with power and electricity, you’ll be intrigued by the tiny Blackstone Power Station at the southern end of town. It has six Lister Blackstone diesel engines that used to supply the whole town with power until 1984. You can get a key from the Baviaans Tourism Office in Knysna Road.

13. Go birding at Bakers Dam
Bakers Dam just outside Willowmore was built in 1906 by the South African Railways to supply steam locomotives with water. With the arrival of diesel trains, the municipality took over the dam to serve as the town’s primary source of water. Today, it’s mainly a spot for birders to spend time with their binos. Look for birds like red-knobbed coots, herons, storks and egrets, maybe even an African fish-eagle. Get a gate key from the tourism office in Knysna Road, Willowmore, and find the gate about 5km south-west of town on the N9 towards Uniondale.

14. Eat at Willowmore restaurants
Although it may not be a foodie destination in the same way as Franschhoek or Stanford, Willowmore does have a few cool coffee shops, farm stalls and restaurants that are surprisingly good for a small Karoo town.

Sophie’s Choice
Duck into Sophie’s Choice, which is also an antique and object d’art palace. Try the fresh scones, carrot cake or apple crumble. They also do breakfasts, and there are lamb shanks, bobotie and other dishes to satisfy the lunch crowd. ​

​Inside, there’s an elegance of antique tables with jugs of fresh roses, leather couches for lounging, and joyfully mismatched chairs. If the weather is good, you might prefer to sit on one of the stoeps among wrought iron chairs and pot plants, to look out over one of the pools and fountains. A walk around the pretty gardens is also a peaceful way to unwind.

Kapoet
At the southern end of the main road, stop at the charming Kapoet with its yellow shutters and umbrellas outside. Try their coffee and apple tart, lemon meringue, milk tart or chocolate cake. For something less sweet, there’s freshly made roosterkoek with toppings like chicken mayo, or biltong and green figs. They also offer fresh pies, quiche, gourmet burgers, filled pancakes, and toasted sarmies. There are some gift items to browse while you wait

​When the weather is fine, sit outside on the Karoo stoepie to watch the passing parade. This activity is widely practised around the Karoo, where it is known as ‘stoepsit’.

Find it at 26 Knysna Street. Not open for dinner.

Belly Deli
Belly Deli declares upfront that it’s not a fast food joint. And that’s already one point in its favour in my eyes, meaning that food is prepared fresh when you order. The little restaurant will lure you in with its colourful and artistically decorated exterior. Inside you’ll find friendly service and a homely atmosphere.

Enjoy anything from breakfast to milkshakes, coffee and cake, or meals like the pies, woodfired pizzas, burgers, stuffed pitas, tramezzinis, wraps, and salads. They also do Sunday lunches featuring dishes like chicken schnitzel, braised oxtail, and bobotie. The fireplace is a gem for cold winter days or you can sit outside to enjoy the fresh air when the weather is balmy.

Find it at 40 Knysna Street. Not open for dinner.

The Willow Historical Guesthouse
The Willow Historical Guesthouse is a mellow hide-out in an old Victorian building that used to be a rectory and a hostel for girls at one time. Enjoy a meal in its a la carte restaurant, surrounded by polished mahogany tables, riempie chairs, hallmarked silver cutlery, and old china plates as wall hangings. 

Try the excellent slow-cooked lamb shank or other Karoo dishes like bobotie, oxtail, ostrich, and pumpkin fritters. Allow enough time to duck into the bar before your meal to enjoy a chat and a space jam-packed with historical memorabilia like old tins, lamps, licence plates and road signs. Read about our visit here.

Find it off the main road at 70 Wehmeyer Street. Open for all meals, including dinner.

Oppi-Vlak Padstal
If you love a good padstal (farm stall) and you’re approaching Willowmore from Aberdeen, you’ll want to stop at Oppi-Vlak Padstal for breakfasts, roosterkoek with various fillings, home-made pies and, in winter, Ouma Betsie’s pea soup. Sweet treats include a legendary milk tart, carrot cake, chocolate torte, apple tart, and waffles. If you’re in a rush, they can make you a takeaway. 

There’s also the usual farmstall fare of dried fruit, rusks, jams and preserves, as well as gifts like toys, tins, signs, mugs, hats and throws that provide a pleasingly cluttered décor for the dining area. Don’t forget to listen carefully to see if you can hear the ‘meerkat choir’ outside. The kids will love to see the donkeys too.

Find it about 40km north of Willowmore on the N9 towards Aberdeen. Not open for dinner.

15. Stay over in Willowmore accommodation
Over the years, we’ve stayed at about a dozen of the accommodation options in Willowmore and the Baviaanskloof. There’s a wide range to suit all budgets, from a full-service hotel, guest houses, B&Bs and self-catering cottages/rooms to camping.

In Willowmore itself, I can highly recommend The Willow Historical Guest House in a lovely old Victorian building. We’ve stayed there twice and the rooms are comfy, the welcome friendly, the pub cosy and chatty, and food in the restaurant very tasty. 

We’ve also stayed in self-catering rooms at Keurfontein Country House about 18km south of town, with the convenience of Sophie’s Choice restaurant nearby for breakfast and lunch if you feel lazy. The wood-burning stove in our room was a boon in freezing weather and the view over a dam relaxing.

If you’re looking for a budget stay, consider the neat and well cared-for Willowmore Caravan Park next to the town hall. There are campsites for caravans and campers, with power and water points nearby and clean bathrooms and kitchens. They also have a few very reasonably-priced chalets for those who’re on a budget but don’t dig camping.

There’s also a rustic campsite with flush loo and hot rocket shower at Finchley Farm 2.5km outside Willowmore.

This is just a handful of the many choices of Willowmore accommodation. For more options, check out Willowmore Tourism’s website.

16. Visit the Baviaanskloof 

Another of my favourite things to do in the area – the reason we first discovered Willowmore – is to take a drive into the beautiful red-stone mountains of the Baviaanskloof (valley of the baboons). Willowmore is the western gateway to this UNESCO World Heritage Site and biodiversity hotspot.

Find the R332 just south of town. It’s both the last and the longest of the 24 roads that the ingenious Thomas Bain built in the 19th century, this one with his father Andrew Geddes Bain between 1880 and 1890. (Some of his other famous passes you may have driven include the Swartberg Pass, Meiringspoort, Seweweekspoort, and the Seven Passes Road on the Garden Route.)

You can choose to venture only as far as the Nuwekloof Pass, to do a hike at one of the guest farms (see point 5) before you turn back to Willowmore, or drive the full 200km to Patensie in the east, taking in numerous river crossings and narrow gravel passes with names like Holgat, Pisgoedvlakte and Poepsloot. There are plenty of guest farms and a few rustic campsites along the way, as well as a day visitors’ picnic area at Smitskraal. Note that you need a 4x4 on the last section through the Baviaanskloof Wilderness Area or Mega Reserve to Patensie in the east.

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