By Roxanne Reid
To the west of Botswana’s Chobe National Park lies the Linyanti, where there’s a geological fault line. It makes the Kwando River that flows south from Namibia change direction as it becomes the Linyanti River, turning 90 degrees to flow north again towards the Chobe. Among this enchanting mix of waterways, marshes, riverine forest and dry woodland is DumaTau Camp.
To the west of Botswana’s Chobe National Park lies the Linyanti, where there’s a geological fault line. It makes the Kwando River that flows south from Namibia change direction as it becomes the Linyanti River, turning 90 degrees to flow north again towards the Chobe. Among this enchanting mix of waterways, marshes, riverine forest and dry woodland is DumaTau Camp.
The camp
We’d read that this varied habitat draws lots of wildlife, from elephant, hippo and lion to wild dog and birds like wattled crane and slaty egret. We knew that DumaTau Camp has a very light carbon footprint; it was rebuilt in 2012 with raised walkways to minimise direct impact on the environment, as well as solar energy and above-ground water treatment for added eco-integrity. And that made us happy because we like the idea of camps that support environmental sustainability.
We’d read that this varied habitat draws lots of wildlife, from elephant, hippo and lion to wild dog and birds like wattled crane and slaty egret. We knew that DumaTau Camp has a very light carbon footprint; it was rebuilt in 2012 with raised walkways to minimise direct impact on the environment, as well as solar energy and above-ground water treatment for added eco-integrity. And that made us happy because we like the idea of camps that support environmental sustainability.
View from the dining deck at sunset
What we hadn’t expected was that the camp would be so gosh-darn gorgeous. From the moment we walked up the wooden stairs to the main deck we were infatuated. The living-dining area is open along the front where it overlooks Osprey Lagoon. Squashy chairs to sink into, age-battered chests, a whole library of nature books, a pool deck, a floating deck in the lagoon – it’s all designed to make you feel welcome, at home.
The floating deck wafts up and down in the water like a giant lily pad
Bedroom with a view
The bathroom, with the shower area behind the screen
The first game drive
Slap, bang, there it all was, from kori bustards – Botswana’s national bird – to elephants feeding on the floodplain, small calves revealing pink little mouths as they waggled and waved trunks they hadn’t yet fully mastered. At least a hundred African monarch butterflies swirled in the air above the yellow water daisies, settled, then swirled again.
Slap, bang, there it all was, from kori bustards – Botswana’s national bird – to elephants feeding on the floodplain, small calves revealing pink little mouths as they waggled and waved trunks they hadn’t yet fully mastered. At least a hundred African monarch butterflies swirled in the air above the yellow water daisies, settled, then swirled again.
As guides do, Evans Keowetse had asked us what we’d most like to see. Not because he could conjure it out of a hat, of course, but because it would give him an idea of the most likely place to go looking. Our safari mates had wanted elephants and we’d found them on the floodplain. Now it was time to look for the wild dogs we’d slapped on the menu.
Evans knew they’d been spotted quite far away that morning. A quick consultation and we were all happy to take a chance that they’d still be in the area. Because of the distance we had to cover before sunset, we moved like an F1 racing car through thick sand on windy roads. We jiggled from side to side, got whacked on the side of the vehicle by a branch here and there, even drove smack through the middle of a deep water channel.
It was like a fairground ride but also an impressive display of driving skill. Later Evans said he’d only been doing 40km but on those rough tracks it felt super-fast – and great fun.
It was like a fairground ride but also an impressive display of driving skill. Later Evans said he’d only been doing 40km but on those rough tracks it felt super-fast – and great fun.
Guide and masterful driver Evans Keowetse
Wild dogs and cats
About 30 minutes before sunset, we arrived in the general area where the dogs had been seen. Trying to anticipate their behaviour, Evans went to a waterhole where he hoped they may be heading. Within minutes there they were, first one dog then two or three, until 13 of them had slurped up some water.
About 30 minutes before sunset, we arrived in the general area where the dogs had been seen. Trying to anticipate their behaviour, Evans went to a waterhole where he hoped they may be heading. Within minutes there they were, first one dog then two or three, until 13 of them had slurped up some water.
A few of them lay down in an open patch of sand. One rolled on its back to scratch, another put its head on its paws, its eyebrows wiggling as it looked from side to side, just like Rover might do back home. Their tummies were full; they’d taken down an impala ram that morning.
Wild dogs are on the IUCN list of endangered species so it was good to see that the dominant female was heavily pregnant. Once those pups were born the challenge would be to keep them safe from both predators and disease.
On our way back in the dark Evans tracked the spoor of a leopard, off the track, through some thick bushes and around a tree. Then there it was in the beam of the infrared spotlight. It crossed in front of us and went to drink among the reeds, crossed again and melted into the bushes.
Wild dogs and a leopard on one game drive. ‘This is going to be very hard to match tomorrow,’ we teased.
On our way back in the dark Evans tracked the spoor of a leopard, off the track, through some thick bushes and around a tree. Then there it was in the beam of the infrared spotlight. It crossed in front of us and went to drink among the reeds, crossed again and melted into the bushes.
Wild dogs and a leopard on one game drive. ‘This is going to be very hard to match tomorrow,’ we teased.
Boma dinner
Back at camp we found a long table set up under a tree. Paraffin lamps and a big fire in the middle of the clearing provided the only light as we settled in for dinner under the stars.
As Wilderness Safaris staff love to do, they welcomed us with music. One song about Beautiful Botswana really touched me with its lilting harmonisation between sweet soprano and deep bass voices. There was dancing around the fire too. Even the chef came out from behind the braai now and then to join in, then went back to tend the meat again.
Back at camp we found a long table set up under a tree. Paraffin lamps and a big fire in the middle of the clearing provided the only light as we settled in for dinner under the stars.
As Wilderness Safaris staff love to do, they welcomed us with music. One song about Beautiful Botswana really touched me with its lilting harmonisation between sweet soprano and deep bass voices. There was dancing around the fire too. Even the chef came out from behind the braai now and then to join in, then went back to tend the meat again.
Settling in for the boma dinner; the bar and huge fire are just out of shot to the left
To be honest, we were hardly hungry after a delicious lunch and our rather undignified scoffing of chocolate brownies at high tea just a few hours earlier. But we ate and we chatted to our fellow guests. One couple worked for NASA and an older couple from Poland engaged us with deep philosophical talk about communism and the meaning of concepts like love and freedom.
Always friendly, always smiling, whether it's front-of-house staff or the background brigade like kitchen staff
I enjoyed talking to the staff who sat down to eat with us too. This interaction with guides and management is a lovely custom at Wilderness Safaris camps, a chance to connect and get to know them better, to ask all your burning questions about their country and its ways.
Happily stuffed with food and thrilled with our wild dog sighting, we went to sleep to the sound of spotted hyenas calling and woke before dawn to the blustering of hippos.
Being among wild animals in their natural environment? Priceless.
Note: I was a guest of Wilderness Safaris for two nights, but the opinions are mine.
You may also enjoy
Highlights of the Linyanti, Botswana
Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
Happily stuffed with food and thrilled with our wild dog sighting, we went to sleep to the sound of spotted hyenas calling and woke before dawn to the blustering of hippos.
Being among wild animals in their natural environment? Priceless.
Note: I was a guest of Wilderness Safaris for two nights, but the opinions are mine.
You may also enjoy
Highlights of the Linyanti, Botswana
Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za