By Roxanne Reid
We’re puttering past a patch of water lilies, water splashing on the sides of the boat, mist spray on our arms. From a small jetty in Kasane, Botswana, we’d sped downstream to Impalila Island for immigration formalities. Now we’re going back upstream to join the Pangolin Voyager for a taste of houseboat life on the Chobe River, photography on our minds.
We’re puttering past a patch of water lilies, water splashing on the sides of the boat, mist spray on our arms. From a small jetty in Kasane, Botswana, we’d sped downstream to Impalila Island for immigration formalities. Now we’re going back upstream to join the Pangolin Voyager for a taste of houseboat life on the Chobe River, photography on our minds.
This border kerfuffle doesn’t take more than 30 or 40 minutes and you get a free boat ride down towards the rapids where Impalila Island in Namibia is. It’s perhaps confusing for first timers, so here’s what it’s all about.
Pangolin Photo Safaris is registered in Botswana and operates from Kasane on the Chobe River. But their Pangolin Voyager houseboat is registered in Namibia, just over the river that forms the border between the two countries. No houseboats are allowed on the Botswana side, which is a national park. So technically – concentrate, now! – you venture out with a Botswana company whose boat is registered in Namibia, along a river that’s half in Namibia and half in Botswana. OK?
There’s talk about implementing a KAZA uni-visa which would simplify things but when we visited in mid 2016 it was just a rumble.
Pangolin Photo Safaris is registered in Botswana and operates from Kasane on the Chobe River. But their Pangolin Voyager houseboat is registered in Namibia, just over the river that forms the border between the two countries. No houseboats are allowed on the Botswana side, which is a national park. So technically – concentrate, now! – you venture out with a Botswana company whose boat is registered in Namibia, along a river that’s half in Namibia and half in Botswana. OK?
There’s talk about implementing a KAZA uni-visa which would simplify things but when we visited in mid 2016 it was just a rumble.
The houseboat
We settled into our cabin on the lower deck, big enough to hold a queen-sized bed. There was a built-in cupboard, a fan to cool us down and a huge mirror on one wall to make the space seem bigger. It was small, but not cramped, and had mosquito screens so we could leave the windows open to drink in the cooling night air.
We settled into our cabin on the lower deck, big enough to hold a queen-sized bed. There was a built-in cupboard, a fan to cool us down and a huge mirror on one wall to make the space seem bigger. It was small, but not cramped, and had mosquito screens so we could leave the windows open to drink in the cooling night air.
The living/dining area was upstairs on the middle deck. Here we could sink in to squishy sofas to thumb through the field guides laid out on the coffee table. There were spare binoculars in case of an emergency sighting when ours were somewhere else on the boat.
Lunch was over by the time we boarded and some of the party of eight we’d be sharing the houseboat with for the night were already hard at work at the 10-seater dining room table.
They were keen photographers who had previously done courses with Pangolin. Now they were reviewing their shots from the morning outing in a specially equipped photo-boat that the Voyager tows wherever it goes, so you can get closer to animals and birds. Each seat swivels in a full circle and has its own camera mount – photographer heaven. (Read my post about our three-hour tutored photo safari with Pangolin to find out more about these amazing boats.)
Lunch was over by the time we boarded and some of the party of eight we’d be sharing the houseboat with for the night were already hard at work at the 10-seater dining room table.
They were keen photographers who had previously done courses with Pangolin. Now they were reviewing their shots from the morning outing in a specially equipped photo-boat that the Voyager tows wherever it goes, so you can get closer to animals and birds. Each seat swivels in a full circle and has its own camera mount – photographer heaven. (Read my post about our three-hour tutored photo safari with Pangolin to find out more about these amazing boats.)
So now they were downloading photos from their cameras to their laptops, conferring with each other about what went wrong in one shot or high-fiving in celebration of a great one. And deleting an awful lot of duds.
We helped ourselves to a drink from the bar and went upstairs to explore the top level, where other guests were lounging in the shade or catching some sun on the viewing deck.
We helped ourselves to a drink from the bar and went upstairs to explore the top level, where other guests were lounging in the shade or catching some sun on the viewing deck.
Up there we had a wonderful view of the river as we glided quietly past a herd of some 20 sable antelope, too far to photograph but beautiful to watch through the binos. Birdlife on the Chobe River was excellent too, from African jacana, darter, pied and malachite kingfisher to African fish-eagle.
Malachite kingfisher
The food
Mid-afternoon and high tea was announced – delicious freshly baked quiche. Chefs Sabrina Siboleka and Melody Maiba produced lip-smacking food in a tiny kitchen. Dinner was caramelised onion and cheese puffs for starters, then roast lamb and veg, with a feather-light apple crumble and cream to finish. Breakfast was an omelette about as light and fluffy as I’ve ever tasted.
Mid-afternoon and high tea was announced – delicious freshly baked quiche. Chefs Sabrina Siboleka and Melody Maiba produced lip-smacking food in a tiny kitchen. Dinner was caramelised onion and cheese puffs for starters, then roast lamb and veg, with a feather-light apple crumble and cream to finish. Breakfast was an omelette about as light and fluffy as I’ve ever tasted.
Chefs Sabrina Siboleka (left) and Melody Maiba
I’m not sure why the quality of the food surprised me, but it did. In our five weeks in Botswana we stayed at 15 or so lodges and the Pangolin Voyager would make our list of top five foodie favourites.
The experience
We spent a glorious afternoon cruising slowly up and down the river watching wildlife. Since we were on board for only a single night, we waved the others off on their afternoon boat trip, cameras cocked and ready to fire.
The experience
We spent a glorious afternoon cruising slowly up and down the river watching wildlife. Since we were on board for only a single night, we waved the others off on their afternoon boat trip, cameras cocked and ready to fire.
Then we kicked back to enjoy life on a houseboat. An elephant calf suckled, its little trunk curled back. A big pod of hippo basking on the river bank, a lone buffalo, some kudu – they all floated into view and then disappeared again as we slid by.
Our pilots Nicolas Simasiku (left) and Fabian Mwilima
Of course, to enjoy life on the Pangolin Voyager it’s not compulsory to be a photographer. You could book a romantic couples getaway or take over the whole houseboat for your family (it’s a 10-sleeper) and not even bring a camera if you didn’t want to. You could just chill and soak up the atmosphere, listen to whitefaced duck whistling overhead or the cry of the fish-eagle.
Sunset with elephant, photo by Christa Goosen
The houseboat docked as night fell, the lights of Kasane glimmering in the distance. Without the dull thrum of the engine we could hear crickets and frogs, all the night sounds of one of the richest wildlife areas in southern Africa.
Moonrise over the Chobe River, photo by Frank Heitmuller
Morning outing in the photo boat
We woke before dawn for our morning outing in the photo boat, searching for wildlife to photograph. A spiteful little wind froze our ears and made the water very choppy. But if we stopped to photograph something, the boat’s super-stable hull – specially designed for photography – made it possible to get the shot anyway. One of the guests was so keen he was shooting about 10 frames a second for at least eight seconds every time a bird flew overhead.
We woke before dawn for our morning outing in the photo boat, searching for wildlife to photograph. A spiteful little wind froze our ears and made the water very choppy. But if we stopped to photograph something, the boat’s super-stable hull – specially designed for photography – made it possible to get the shot anyway. One of the guests was so keen he was shooting about 10 frames a second for at least eight seconds every time a bird flew overhead.
African darter
Wiretailed and striped swallows swirled around the boat, a fish-eagle cried out and a darter flew low over the water, causing a flurry of camera clicking. The photographer commentary was ongoing, sharing tips and settings, lots of photo-speak about f-stops and shutter speeds and exposure, the less experienced learning from the more experienced, many of them veterans of more than a few of Pangolin’s multi-day photo workshops.
African fish-eagle, photo by Christa Goosen
We heard the sound of a distant rumble, an elephant. ‘That infrasonic sound can be heard 12 kilometres away,’ said skipper and guide Fabian Mwilima. ‘Other elephants pick up the vibration with their feet.’
He was no ordinary guide. Of course he knew lots about the wildlife of the Chobe River, but he also understood what photographers need for a good shot. Where’s the sun? Let’s position ourselves so that it’s behind us. Are those adult elephants obscuring the view of the calves from that angle? Well, let’s pilot the boat to an angle where we can see them. Such calculations were passing automatically through his mind.
He was no ordinary guide. Of course he knew lots about the wildlife of the Chobe River, but he also understood what photographers need for a good shot. Where’s the sun? Let’s position ourselves so that it’s behind us. Are those adult elephants obscuring the view of the calves from that angle? Well, let’s pilot the boat to an angle where we can see them. Such calculations were passing automatically through his mind.
Pied kingfisher
On the way back for breakfast we couldn’t go too slowly to make allowances for the choppy water; some people had a plane to catch. So the waves swirled high around us and the spray had a laugh at our expense.
But back on the houseboat, damp clothes and freezing ears suddenly didn’t matter anymore. There was a hot meal in our tummies, and the warmth of new friends who only yesterday had been strangers - like Frank and Christa whose photos are also featured in this post.
Need to know
Get more info about the Pangolin Voyager houseboat, including cost.
Watch a video about the Voyager and the river experience at Chobe.
Note: I was a guest of the Pangolin Voyager for one night, but the opinions are mine.
You may also enjoy
Tutored photos safari on the Chobe River, Botswana
Highlights of Chobe, Botswana
Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
But back on the houseboat, damp clothes and freezing ears suddenly didn’t matter anymore. There was a hot meal in our tummies, and the warmth of new friends who only yesterday had been strangers - like Frank and Christa whose photos are also featured in this post.
Need to know
Get more info about the Pangolin Voyager houseboat, including cost.
Watch a video about the Voyager and the river experience at Chobe.
Note: I was a guest of the Pangolin Voyager for one night, but the opinions are mine.
You may also enjoy
Tutored photos safari on the Chobe River, Botswana
Highlights of Chobe, Botswana
Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za